
Just celebrated the anniversary of our official Chinese marriage. I was told, "we need to start more traditions." That utterance in and of itself kicked-off the first tradition I've been present at the inception of. Um, we'll eat sushi on our anniversary. Sure, we went to a Middle Eastern restaurant with belly dancers and nargilah on the night of our marriage, but who wants to start a noisy, smoke-filled tradition? Chinese New Year pretty much has that one down pat smoke/noise/and tradition-wise. And they don't use the avocado in Arabic food, which makes it hard to think that it'd be a sustainable tradition for Kasha and I.

And since we're using this anniversary as a reason to celebrate something in a periodically repeating manner, what better excuse to haul out a bunch of old words and pictures? The words describe the day we got married, and the pictures are the only pictures I have on this computer.

It's probably for the best that sometimes you have no idea what you're actually doing. Otherwise you tend to over-think things, assign significance needlessly, or just succumb to the gut-wrenching nerves that someone with an over-active mind for irony and sarcasm once decided to dub 'butterflies'.

Sometimes an unimaginable outcome evolves from happenstance and the world changes drastically. History is full of these unanticipated discoveries from the rising of dough to the properties of nitrous oxide; from the first telephone call to the first Europeans who saw the American chain of continents. I'd even bet the recipe for Thousand Island dressing was a kitchen mishap with favorable results. The point is it happens all the time and mostly for the better. That is why Good Friday, the 21st of March 2008 can be seen as such a huge success, and that's the only way it could have been.

To begin with, it was not the type of morning you where you spring right out of bed, although it was the beginning of Spring. We woke up late after pressing snooze for half an hour only to find a rainy, cloudy, dismal, rotten, damp, dingy, and cold day. 'Overcast' does the sky of that morning no justice. It looked as if the whole of Beijing was submersed in a stopped sink full of greasy dishwater. Undeterred, we hopped up, threw on the kind of clothes that people behind counters can't ignore, and, with coffee and toast in tow, we grabbed (what we thought) was everything that we'd need for the day. Although it seemed like a passing, trifling sort of a thought at the time, it was at that moment that the 'singing toast-o-gram' was invented. But, I digress.

So, the idea was simple enough. We needed to go to the US Embassy in order to attain an affidavit that could attest to our marriageability… certifying that you're marriable in the eyes of the US government. Seriously! Next we had to take that information to the Beijing Branch Office of the Chinese Marriage Registry Bureau to do the same thing for the Chinese government. How romantic?! At least it'd be quick. Zip through a few offices, fill out some papers, dot some 'i's', cross some 't's', and maybe find a little place to have a nice lunch.It was five after nine and we were thirty-five minutes from the place we had planned to be at by nine.

So we were late and cold but, not to worry, in what seemed just a few seconds we were at the bus stop and moments from starting our day's journey. Or so we thought. After fifteen minutes of shivering on the corner we finally saw our bus approach with an accompanying feeling of relief. Then we saw the bus drive right by full to the brim with passengers, it's driver giving a honk and wave in acknowledgment while accelerating right past us. It's fine, no big deal. These things will happen. And taxis are faster anyways…We hailed a cab and before you could say "Wo men chu Gou Mao" we were on our way.

Yes, but we were also on our way before you could say, "wait, did we catch a cab or a sardine-can-port-a-potty with ashtray wheels?" Really, it wasn't that bad. We were both thankful that the driver seemed to have miraculously escaped unscathed when his taxi was buried in an avalanche of old tunafish sandwiches and washed away by a flash flood of urine and armpit sweat. But you know how smells are: they don't fade so much as you just get used to them over time. We couldn't even pinpoint when that moment had come, but it could have been at any point while we were caught in Beijing gridlock for over an hour. At the first opportunity we jumped out and began to hoof it, double time.

At this point in the morning we had to anticipate the possibility that we were in store for long lines and impossibly out-of-date periodicals that typify government waiting rooms. Added to that was the reality that the offices close for a two-hour lunch from 11:30AM- 1:30 in the afternoon. Who were these people, farmers? Spaniards? Old Money? As we rushed up to the embassy, I was filled with pride and confidence when I realized that, as an American citizen, I would be one of the few to survive if there were an outbreak of zombies in Beijing. The walls were high, barbed-wired, and would pose an impossible obstacle to even those unfortunate undead, deranged as they are by their craving for human brains. God Bless the United States Embassy!

We arrived in the metal detector room one hundred yards from the entrance of the Embassy at a quarter to eleven o'clock in the morning and had shown our passports three times already, to three different sets of skinny Chinese guards in the uniforms of fat men. There we got to take a number (22) for our turn in the queue of the office and I think also to pick up a half pound of thin-sliced corned beef.

Only one guard remained before we were sitting in the waiting room, and this one was an actual US enlisted man in full camo fatigues! We were really there, finally, and the magazine (People, September 2007, cover story: Owen Wilson's Tragic Secret Suffering) was really interesting. The Stars are just people, you know? Just like you and me.

In less than ten minutes time, we were brutally torn from our interesting magazine article and called up to (show our passports again and) take our turn in line. They usually only have to verify one passport and emboss one affidavit, so we posed a bit of a complexity to them: What do you do when two Americans want to be married? Day in, day out they prepare the document for combinations of one American and one Chinese, quickly sending them off to the bliss unending that is marriage.
We were instructed to take our seats for another moment, ostensibly to again verify our identities and make sure the printer had fresh toner. Our passports must have been passed through whatever machine they used to disconfirm the authenticity of the Shroud of Turin. That gave the person preparing the forms plenty of time to comment on two amusing tidbits that had occurred to her: 1) that we had brought in all the information which was requested on their website to no end as that information is not actually needed at all! and 2) the fact that my passport photo made me look like an unemployed wreck with lunatic eyes and hat-hair, which I am, which reminded her of her own husband. And people say I don't know how to make conversation.

We were sworn in and smiled at while we gave testimony to the fact that neither of us were under coercion of any kind when it happened: we had each signed the other's documents, immediately rendering them invalid. And so the process started anew in a giggly expedited fashion. We were happy to be given the address and phone number of our next destination, the Chinese counterpart to our own American government office, because this information was not to be found anywhere else on the internet, from other expats in the know, or in countless emails to the embassy. We were a little shocked to learn that it was on the other side of Beijing, but we left with the sense that we really knew where we were going (that afternoon, specifically; and in life, generally) as well as who we were, for our identities had never been quite so scrutinized. We were now very, very verified and, indeed, marriable. Another memorable tangent was that everybody in the waiting room and behind the counter took a moment to wish us a happy married life.

As we descended into the Beijing subway we made our next plan: get as far north as the trains would take us and call for further directions when we got back to the surface and the office reopened around 1:30PM. Things were going smoothly. The subways in Beijing are not extensive and as such are quite simple to navigate. They are a great way to feel as if you are one with the people of China, due mainly to the fact that if it were possible to position yourself any nearer to them you'd have to be sharing pants. We wedged ourselves in and out, transferred to the northbound line, re-wedged and shimmied, and were back at the street level at (get this) 1:34PM. How do you like them apples?

The next step was simple: call them up, find out where exactly they were, and catch a ride right over. Luckily for us, the office had one of those, "Press Two For English" prompts. We were really in business now; the business of listening to the shittiest, most garble-mouthed and incoherent, fuzzy, static-y, broken "eng-rish" that has ever been heard on earth. We began to curse the zombie-proof embassy. Had they found this phone number in the Yellow Pages (oh, Chinese phone books are actually yellow too, although not full of chins) or in some fifties-era bomb shelter time capsule?
We flagged down a cabby hoping for some understanding and help. She kicked us out into streets and drove off. Again was the embassy damned. The next driver pulled over, let us in, and, looking over the directions we had, used his own phone to call the office. He took us directly there. It was uncanny. We learned a valuable lesson about positive mental attitudes: when you start the day with a positive attitude and get nowhere fast, just start criticizing the US Embassy and you'll get there.
The Chinese Registry office was beautiful. It's high walls had no razor wire, no shards of glass, not even the decorative spear tips that seem to send the same message but in a genteel voice. They were walls, sure, and the entrance was guarded; but the walls were carved with the images of a hundred naked women dancing and the guard looked to be an eleven year old boy just about to doze off for his afternoon nap. Inside we pulled out all our forms and such, impressive as they were with the seal of the US of A. We had made sure that we had brought everything we needed. We were now more than two hours from home so it was imperative to have it all. The woman behind the desk told us we had it all wrong. It said to bring in three pictures and the certificates from the embassy. What it did not say is that the photos had to be identical and prepared by a professional photographer measuring 4x5cm. Right. Why not just assume that people will know that? We also were told that we could use a nearby consulting firm to translate the documents and we were presented with a business card of one of the consultants. Before leaving we were informed that we'd have to bring someone back to the office to transcribe our information onto the official documents in Mandarin characters. How silly of us not to have known that?!
It was now approaching a quarter to three. We were back on the streets and talking with the consultant who assured us we could be serviced that very same afternoon when we spotted an oasis in the desert of frustration. Right across from us was a wedding photographer with instant passport photos available. Where did that photographer come from? I had to look around just to be sure that Lindsay and Brittany were not going commando in short skirts! After ten minutes we had moved closer to the finish line and calmed our nerves by looking at thousands of adorable Chinese baby pictures.
We were handed our still-wet proofs in the photographer's special envelope and were en route to the consultant's firm, the consultant himself directing our driver. Imagine our surprise when we discovered he had still dropped us off at the wrong office building. The architecture of this area was arranged in compounds full of numbered blocks. We were at the right address in the 6 block, but we needed the corresponding address in the 10 block. OK, just walk down past the next three of them, no? No. The blocks aren't in numerical order, but are labeled in random fashion as if for a hidden camera blooper show. Not wanting to waste time we called the consultant who kindly agreed to escort us in person to the office. As it turns out, the fault for our lost condition couldn't be laid solely at the feet of our cab driver. I am not even sure that a bloodhound with GPS channeling Boba Fett could have found this consultant's office.
When we got there I had to doubt that this guy even worked there. We were stuck outside the front door until someone from the office came to let us through in spite of the fact that the door had a keypad. "I don't know the code," he told us, blushing. He asked us for the documents inviting us to sit down. The look on his face can only be described as puzzlement. The guy had obviously never seen these forms before. He took the forms into the next room and left us to sit in the cubicles of his coworkers. Our noses must have been fully recovering from the stenchridden taxi of he early morning because we both noticed the unmistakable smell of a scam.

This office looked like the last thing they had consulted for was a bachelor-pad after a hurricane. No, the spider webs would have been blown away by a hurricane! I wondered what look they were going for when they hung only half a set of curtains. Is that nouveau-heroine-junky or post-apocalyptic-dystopia? Then I wondered what we were thinking: we had let this guy take our embossed certificates without negotiating (or even inquiring about) the price of the translation and with less than 90 minutes to get back to the Registry Bureau before missing our window.
At that moment the consultant emerged with the news that they usually charge RMB150 per document and an additional 300 to go out of the office and translate on site. Would it be 150, 300, or 600? The consultant and his coworker argued about the price after we told him we could not afford to have him come and help us at the Registry office. It should be noted that one document was translated. Certainly, we needed two different pages, but those differences were Kathryn and Wesley; Southfield and Toledo; etc, and they were left in English. He did the right thing and, to the visible irk of his colleague, he gave us our papers at ten minutes before four, charging only RMB150.

We had the same problem with the address of the Registry bureau and the first taxi declined to pick us up. After flagging down a new ride we decided to show him the photographer's envelope and we were back in a jiffy, passing all the huge and amazing new buildings of the Beijing Olympic Park. Back at the same desk we'd been at just an hour and a half earlier the most unusual thing happened. The woman who had informed us that our documents were out of order now refused to speak any English. We were in a serious jam.

None of the people we knew who'd have been delighted to translate for us for free were anywhere near enough to get to the office before it closed at five. We tried to get a friend on the phone and it was a dead end. Things were about to get frantic. We could go and try to bribe a kind stranger in the streets, we could scream and shout, we could, we could… well, those were our only options.

I decided that I'd try my old standby and curse that damned embassy again. Would it be that hard for the US Embassy in China to have their forms available in Mandarin? Seriously, have them translated ONCE! All the remaining info is just printed in English on blanks that correspond to the blanks on the Embassy's document. Unbelievable! Kasha sighed one of those sighs conveying unmistakably, "I can't believe this BS!" And then it happened.

The woman behind the desk cracked. She got up and left the room, returning a minute later with two friendly, smiling guys. She pulled out a form that had the questions in English, which we filled in, and one of the nice gentlemen put it all into Chinese for us in about five minutes. She stamped the papers, affixed a seal, and stuck down the passport photos with a glue stick, asking RMB9 in fee. The woman asked if we were happy. I thought she was referring to the fact that we had managed to cut out RMB450 from that consultant (yes, very happy) or with the fact that she had suddenly regained her interest in helping us in English (which, of course, was agreeable) but next she said, "you should kiss."

She offered to take our picture with our kiss and new documents and I realized that we had not become registered to marry, but rather we had just registered ourselves as a married couple (at least as far as the government of the People's Republic of China was concerned). She was asking us if we were happy to be married and, honestly, we were delighted. Having it thrust on you like that (while at times throughout the day seemed confounding and hopeless) completely sidestepped the cold feet and "My life is now over!" feelings that traditionally accompany the wedding day.

She snapped our picture and made it official. We were now married and I officially look like a lunatic in a two-dollar haircut. All in all, it was a perfect fiasco. We got it done, and on an easy to remember day that seemed to simultaneously capture the sentiment and stand at diametrical odds to its proceedings (Good Friday), and one which is known within Catholic circles as an occasion where vegetarian food is called for. What a coup?! We pulled off the unthinkable, at 4:53, with 7 minutes to spare, without even knowing it, and, in a lot of ways, that made it the most memorable.